A Year in China, 1899-1900

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The appearance of a port on the River Yangtze in summer and in winter is very different. The long bund which eight months before had had the water almost flush with its coping, was now a tall bare expanse of mud and stone work, tower- ing thirty feet above us. Much less trade was going on also than in May when the tea season is in full swing, and of course the climate was materially altered.
During my stay at Hankow this time I had occasion to visit the Viceroy Chang-chi-tung, who was mentioned
... before in Chapter II. I found him quite as clever and as sensible as I had expected, though he did not impress me as being either so strong a ruler or so pro-British as is usually believed. He is however a fine old gentleman, very courteous and with a considerable sense of humour, and he certainly possesses the art of choosing most capable subordinates. He is supposed to be very io8 A YEAR IN CHINA CHAP.
honest and (in consequence) very poor, though he had on when he received us a sable cloak that would have made the mouth of a Moscow merchant water.


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