American Notes

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V. CHICAGO "I know thy cunning and thy greed, Thy hard high lust and wilful deed, And all thy glory loves to tell Of specious gifts material. " I HAVE struck a city--a real city--and they call it Chicago.
The other places do not count. San Francisco was a pleasure-resort aswell as a city, and Salt Lake was a phenomenon.
This place is the first American city I have encountered. It holdsrather more than a million of people with bodies, and stands on the samesort of soil as Calcutta. Having seen i
...t, I urgently desire never tosee it again. It is inhabited by savages. Its water is the water of theHooghly, and its air is dirt. Also it says that it is the "boss" town ofAmerica.
I do not believe that it has anything to do with this country. They toldme to go to the Palmer House, which is overmuch gilded and mirrored, and there I found a huge hall of tessellated marble crammed with peopletalking about money, and spitting about everywhere. Other barbarianscharged in and out of this inferno with letters and telegrams in theirhands, and yet others shouted at each other.


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