Fancies Fashions And Fads

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The decadence of Parisian cooking had already commenced in the early eighties of the last century, at which time M. Abraham Dreyfus, a high authority on culinary matters, writing in The XIX mc Siecle, pointed out how difficult it was be- coming to secure the services of really accomplished cooks, for the reason that first-rate chefs could always command much larger salaries in London, in Berlin, in Vienna, in St. Petersburg, in New York, and in San Francisco than they could obtain in Paris; and... that at the slightest reprimand which they received from their patrons they threatened to " rendre le tablier" The Cafe" du Roi, once a celebrated restaurant in secret much patronized by the Royalists under the Empire, acquired its name in rather a strange fashion. One warm evening in autumn a young man, somewhat overdressed, with a very considerable border of pinkish silk stockings seen above the margin of his low boots, and a most inordinate amount of coat-collar, lounged along the Boulevard des Italiens, occasionally ogling THE CAFti DU ROI 113 the passers-by, but, oftener still, throwing an admiring glance at himself as the splendid windows of plate- glass reflected back his figure.

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