Frames of Mind

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For my part, when I behold a fashionable table set out in all its magnificence, I fancy that I see gouts and dropsies, fevers and lethargies, with other innumerable distempers lying in ambuscade among the dishes. " And Addison goes on to advise : " Make your whole repast out of one dish " now, as then, it is to be feared, rather a counsel of perfection than a practical precept.
One of the liveliest chapters in " Peregrine Pickle " describes, with an implied allusion to contemporary feeding, the
... feast given by the Doctor " in the manner 202 of the ancients, " with its " boiled goose, served up in a sauce composed of pepper lovage, coriander, mint, rue, anchovies, and oil, " its dormouse pie, and its "sow's stomach, rilled with a composition of minced pork, hog's brains, eggs, pepper, cloves, garlic, aniseed, ginger, oil, wine, and pickle. " Probably the best account of an eighteenth-century dinner extant is that given in the " Polite Conversation, " and any one who is at the pains to piece together the menu from the scattered allusions to it in the dialogue will wonder that the party could have survived such a Gargantuan banquet.

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