How to Bottom a Welted Shoe By Hand

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The greatest pulling is done with the right hand. For instance, if the workman is right-handed, he pulls harder on the outside stitch, making sure, however, to pull the inside seam up well and tight. Over- casting on the outside or on the welt helps the stitches to lay flat and prevents pulling through. In pushing the awl through, every precaution must be taken to guard against a round or high seam. To prevent such a seam the awl should be pushed through the bar so that it will come out directl...y in the corner of angle (as shown in Diagram III) of the bar and shoulder. It is absolutely neces- sary that the upper be lasted and held in proper place here (at the bar) so there will be no straining while stitching by trying to pull it close to the bar. Diagram II shows upper held in its proper place in angle of bar and shoulder. When the upper is out of place and tacks placed on top of the bar, the upper is often torn between the shoulder and bar by pulling it to its proper place.
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