In Ethiopia With a Mule (2012)

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A Compound on a Mountain Top NOT SINCE LEAVING Asmara have I seen anything like the crowds that were coming into Dessie this morning. As we descended a steep path through thick eucalyptus woods our pace was slowed by the opposing ‘rush-hour’ traffic of hundreds of pushing humans, scurrying flocks of goats and sheep, scores of laden donkeys, horses and mules and many men and a few women riders, each with an attendant gun-bearer. This province seems to have an unusually big population of packhorse...s, pack-mules and riding-mules.
    At the foot of the mountain we crossed a bright green, semi-waterlogged valley where we were joined by a caravan of six men, ten donkeys, five horses and three mules, on their way home from yesterday’s market. As usual, Jock was keen to trot in the lead – but, alarmingly, he soon lagged behind with the slowest of the donkeys.
    A long, tough climb took us to a high pass from which our track dipped and rose through a magnificent wilderness of broken mountains.


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