Key Line System of Garment Cutting

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58 AT^K ^>/-V£ SYSTEM OF GARMENT CUTTING.
The dotted lines in figure 24 show a pattern of a corpulent form, with breast line B of fig. 23 called into requisition, and is a true illustration of the coat as it would be before it is altered and re-altered, when even then it does not fit.
The solid lines of fig. 24 represent the pattern of the same form. With breast line A called into requisition it is proceeded with the same as in the normal type, until we come to the size of the breast, when the
...full size, as per breast line in fig. 23, is given.
This will in all instances produce a nice fitting garment.
The question now is how to ascertain the width of breast, as per line A figure 23.
There are many ways, but one of the best is to take your client's measure around the arm at shoulder, which will measure one-half of normal w^aist, which is one-sixth less than breast, viz.: Suppose your client measures 45 inches around breast ; this is to all appearances very large ; measure his arm at shoulder and you will in all probability ha\'e 18 inches close measure ; this would make waist 36 and breast 43 full ; proceed to draft by 43 breast measure, and allow full 4o at breast.


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