Letters Written During a Journey in Spain And a Short Residence in Portugal

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30 LETTER III.
Departure from Coruno. Moad to Betan" zos. Travelling accommodations. Seen- erif of Galicia. Griteru. Bamoitde.
Thursday night.
About two o'clock this afttrnoon, we left Coruiia in a coach and six, which is to convey us to Madrid lor a hundred and twenty-five dollars. As we sit in the carriage, our eyes are above the win- dows; which must, of course, be admira- bly adapted for seeing the country. Our six mules are harnessed only with rojoes : the leaders and the middle pair are w
...ith- out reins, and the nearest reined only v/ith ropes. The two muleteers, or more properly, the Mayoral and Zagal, either ride on a low kind of box, or walk. The mules know their names, and obey the Toice of their driver with astonishing do- ciiitv. Tbeir beads are most gaily bedi- zened with tnfts and hanging strings of blue, vellow, and purple worsted ; each mule has sixteen bells ; so that we travel more musically, and -dmost a> fast, as a fiying wago;on. There are four reasons why these bells are worn: they may be necessary in a dark night; and, where the ro ids are narrow, they give timely warning to other tiaveile.

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