Modern Millinery; a Workroom Text book Containing Complete Instruction in the Work of Preparing, Making And Copying Millinery

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After cutting the two ends of the bias strips remove the selvage. The reason it is so important to re- move selvage is that the warp and woof threads are all bound together in the selvage, and as the object of cutting bias material is to stretch as much as possible, the removal of the selvage great- ly aids in the stretching. To join two bias strips together so they are the same width at joining as other parts of the flange, slip one strip down on the other the depth of seam as shown in illustr...a- tion and join by machine.
96 Measuring the Bias Strip After deciding a suitable width for the flange in its relation to the hat, the third point is to know how wide to cut material to allow for stretching and seam allowances, as all materials differ as to how much they stretch out. The only safe way to find how much to allow for stretching and turn- ing under is to take the true bias of velvet you have made on one end from the straight material and pin and stretch on the outer edge, pinning the upper edge and seam allowance beyond the edge where finished flange is to be mounted.


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