On the Slow Train

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However, I’m in the Station Hotel in Millom, on the west coast of the Lake District. Splendid is a word few people might readily use – and as far as Lakeland scenery goes, there are no hosts of golden daffodils to be seen for miles around. Richard, the proprietor, had already warned me. ‘I ought to tell you,’ he said when I phoned through my booking. ‘It might look like the Lake District on the map, but I don’t want you to get a surprise.’ The local lads are screeching round in beat-up Nissans o...utside, doing handbrake turns; a double vodka and Red Bull is £3.99 in the bar. What was once the town’s department store is derelict and boarded up. Even the Job Centre is up for sale. ‘We never recovered since the steelworks closed in 1968,’ says Alicia, the waitress in the Da Vinci restaurant. ‘This is the last eating place in town since the Thai closed,’ she tells me as she dishes up a pizza margherita. The big local employer these days is Haverigg Prison.
I’d already been briefed about Millom by John Kitchen, who looks after the local railway lines for Cumbria Council.


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