Puzzle for Pilgrims (2015)

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We had been in Veracruz five days, and the carnival was at its peak. Our table was on the edge of the seething sidewalk. Clusters of figures in tail-hooded black dominoes danced by through the blue evening fight, clutching each other and shrilling in the high, batlike twitter of the carnival. There were wild papier-mâché masks—masks with red, bulbous noses, masks with drawn, tragic mouths. Peasants from the country streamed past in bright traditional costumes. A huge man, dressed as a bride, par...aded back and forth with a doll baby in his arms. He was moaning that he had been abandoned at the altar. The whole town had become a huge tropical aviary, alive with bird chatter and the dazzle of flashing colors.
    The cafes stretched the full length of the garishly lit Zocalo, and the square was mad with sound. On the sidewalk three feet from our table, four Veracruzans in blinding white suits, with scarlet handkerchiefs knotted at their necks and bleached straw hats, were pounding a marimba.


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