Riviera Towns

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They are crossed by the narrowest of city alleys, a I'ltalienne, and to the right of the Rue des Briques, around the Cathedral, is the rest of the town. Nowhere does the old town extend to the sea.
On the sites of the ancient fortifications the present ruler, Prince Albert, has made gardens and built mu- seums for his collections of prehistoric man and of ocean life. One ought never to dip into museums. If you have lots and lots of time (I mean weeks, not hours), or if you have special interest
... in a definite field of study, museums may be profitable. But "doing" museums is the last word in tourist folly. Yes, I know that skele- tons and the cutest little fish are in those museums. I am not ashamed to confess that I never darkened their doors. Life is short, and while the Artist revels in his subjects, I find more interest in studying the living Mone- gasques than their — and our — negroid ancestors.
For there is a separate race, with its own patois, in Monaco. You would never spot it in the somewhat Teutonic cosmopolitanism of the Condamine and Monte Carlo tradesmen and hotel servants.


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