The Ascent of Denali (Mount Mckinley) a Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest Peak in North America

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Toes and fingers grew numb despite mul- tiple socks within mammoth moccasins and thick gloves within fur mittens.
From this time, during our stay in the Grand Basin and until we had left it and descended again, the weather progressively cleared and brightened until all clouds were dispersed. From time to time there were fresh descents of vapor, and even short snow-storms, but there was no general en- veloping of the mountain again. Cold it was, at times even in the sunshine, with "a nipping and
... an eager air," but when the wind ceased it would grow intensely hot. On the 4th June, at 3 P. m., the thermometer in the full sunshine rose to 50° F. — the highest temperature recorded on the whole excursion — and the fatigue of packing in that thin atmosphere with the sun's rays reflected from ice and snow everywhere was most exhaust- ing. We were burned as brown as Indians; lips and noses split and peeled in spite of continual applications of lanoline, but, thanks to those most beneficent amber snow-glasses, no one of the party had the slightest trouble with his eyes.

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