The Philippines : An Account of Their People, Progress, And Condition

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I caught the fat Mayordomo (chief stew- ard), and after endless trouble managed to get a key for my cabin door, though the choice lay between having it open or dying of asphyxiation; but I pre- ferred the latter risk of the two, as at least I could be certain what to expect if I kept it locked.
One look at the mattresses was enough. I slept, 166 VOYAGE TO MANILA or rather lay awake sweltering, on all the coverlets piled on the least filthy of the upper berths. The cabin smelt horrible, and the
...only light there, as in the saloon, was a candle in a bracket, the glass of which was so grimed with dirt that it gave hardly any light at all. No water was laid on to the filthy basin, and it did not do to let one's mind dwell for one instant on cockroaches — like a child who tries not to think of some horrible ghost story in the dark.
About six this morning the muchacho (they have no word for steward apparently) woke me by rat- tling at the handle of my door, when I climbed down and held parley with him through the crack.


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