The World's Most Dangerous Place

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The surface of the old north–south highway had long since eroded, and for the most part was as rough as a farm track, so that it took well over three hours to cover the 200 kilometres in between. Our white-painted Toyota travelled in the routine UN way, in a convoy between two truckloads of heavily armed SPU. The dust thrown up by the vehicle in front made it hard at times to see out. The desert on either side, dimly perceived through ochre-coloured clouds, was a Henry Moore sculpture park of te...rmite mounds. Here and there we passed an acacia tree, often with a ragged tent pitched in its handkerchief of shade: refugees, the driver said, who had paused in their northward flight from the drought. There was little traffic on the road during the hot mornings, apart from the occasional lorry lumbering towards Bossasso with a cargo of offended-looking camels, their protruding necks and heads swaying in time as their vehicle lurched into another disconcertingly deep pothole.I was curious to see Galkacyo, one of the great crossroads of Somali trade and an important city in its own right.

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