Travels in Central Asia : Being the Account of a Journey From Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert On the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, And Samarcand, Performed in the Year 1863

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XI. SAMARCAND. " 203 But, alas! why need I add that the impression produced by its exterior was weakened as we ap- proached, and entirely dissipated by our entry into the place itself? Bitter indeed the disappointment in the case of a city like Samarcand, so difficult of access, and a knowledge of which has to be so dearly acquired ; and when we drove in through the Dervaze Bokhara, and had to pass through the greater part of the cemetery to reach the inhabited part of the town, 1 thought of th...e Persian verse — ' Samarcand is the focus of the whole globe.'* In spite of all my enthusiasm, I burst out into a loud fit of laughter. We first proceeded to a karavanserai, on the side of the bazaar, where Hadjis have quarters awarded to them gratuitously; but the very same evening we were invited to a private house situate beyond the bazaar, near the tomb of Timour, and what was my joy and surprise when I learnt that our host fortunately was an officer of the Emir, and entrusted with the surveillance of the palace in Samarcand !

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