Two Centuries of Costume in America Mdcxx Mdcccxx volume 1

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^^^ cardinals were much worn, especially purple ones. The Connoisseur says all colors were neglected for purple. " In purple we glowed from hat to shoe. In such request were ribbons and silks of that famous color that neither milliner mercer nor dver could meet the demand. " The names "cardinal" and "capuchin" had been Cloaks and their Cousins 267 derived from monkish wear, and the cape, called a pelerine, had an allied derivation; it is said to be derived from pelerin — meaning a pilgrim. It w...as a small cape with longer ends hanging in front ; and was invented as a light, easily adjustable cov- ering for the ladies' necks, which had been left so widely and coldly bare by the low-cut French bod- ices. It is said that the garment was invented in France in 167 1. I do not find the word in use in America till 1730. Then mantua-makers advertised that they would make them. Various materials were used, from soft silk and thin cloth to rich velvet ; but silk pelerines were more common.
In 1743, in the Boston News Letter^ Henrietta Maria East advertised that " Ladies may have their Pellerines made" at her mantua-making shop.


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