Water Particle Paths Near a Vertical Barrier

Cover Water Particle Paths Near a Vertical Barrier
Water Particle Paths Near a Vertical Barrier
Eugene Isaacson
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Y ^ - Re ne" « ne"*^ cos x 1) <^o = Re -iz /-iz (z « X + iy; Re » Real part of) du + nie •12 ne^ sin x (for large x) To obtain a progressing wave, we set 2) ($(x, yjt) = 4-j^(x, y) sin t + ^^{x. Y) cos t (t represents dimensionless tine, (tT) Therefore, for large x ^(x, y;t) * ne'^[cos x sin t + sin x oos t] = ne^ sin (x + t). The particles of water, [x(t), y(t)], satisfy the following system of differential equations: s) S ' - ^J-'V:^) % ■ - V''-^'*' (the subscript mesining partial differentiation with respect to that variable) together with some initial conditions. x(t ) =» X ^ o' o y(*o) - ^0- ♦ We are employing the appropriate dimensionless lengths x and y where, if we set A = wave length at «, -s— x and ■=-• y represent 2ng tjrue distances (i. E. A = —5^, where g = acceleration due to 6^ itft gravity, tf = frequency of standing waves, (^e ). We have integrated the equations of nation 3) for several ini- tial points and have verified that the following simple description of the particle paths is correct: Any individual particle path is fundamentally elliptical in shape — the "ellipses" are large near the surface because the velocities are large and decrease in size as w© go deeper.

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