Wave Action in Relation to Engineering Structures

Cover Wave Action in Relation to Engineering Structures
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This photograph was taken during a calm on the day following a storm. The waves were very regular, and the one shown, which was about 5 feet in height, broke in a depth of about 8.9 feet. The bottom was sandy and uniform, the slope being about j^.^.
This may be taken as a typical breaking wave uninfluenced by wind, and shows how widely such a wave departs from the form of the common cycloid at the hollow, although resem- bling it fairly closely at the crest.
If, as is sometimes contended, the w
...aveform at the instant of breaking is that of the common cycloid, the wave length in this case would be but 3.14 times the wave height, whereas it is about 21 times the wave height, and in Section II of Table XV, for the mean of 173 observations, it is 19.7 times the wave height.
Photographs of unbroken waves in the outer end of the Duluth Ship Canal, taken about half an hour before that of the breaking wave just described, are shown on pages 62, 63, and 64.
CHAPTER VIll.
FoBOE Exerted by Waves.


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