Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone

Cover Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone
Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone
Dally, William R
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73 150 100 (cm) 50 Linear Theory 300 Figure 5.2 Comparison of model, using linear wave theory, to field data of Hotta and Mizuguchi (1980) for transformation of statistically representative waves.
74 44 1.0 2.0 H/H 23 B* w 1.0 2.0 H/H HData M Model Results Figure 5.3 Comparison of model, using linear wave theory, to field data of Hotta and Mizuguchi (1980) for transformation of histogram of wave height.
75 Even though a gap in the data in the trough region prevents verifi- cation of the wave re
...formation aspects of the model, the favorable comparison landward of this section lends support to the stable wave assumption in the original formulation (2.4). It is noted that the random wave model predicted that the majority of the waves reformed in the trough, consistent with visual observations made during the experiment.
To investigate the effects of nonlinear shoaling on the transfor- mation of statistically representative waves, Cnoidal wave theory is applied using the results and recommendations of Svendsen and Buhr Hansen (1977).


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