The book Wave Warrior was written by author Lesley Choyce Here you can read free online of Wave Warrior book, rate and share your impressions in comments. If you don't know what to write, just answer the question: Why is Wave Warrior a good or bad book?
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He dropped me off at home and I felt like a king. Now I had my own surf gear. I could surf whenever I wanted. Suddenly summer didn’t look so bad. Ray would show up and we’d go back to the Farm—Nirvana Farm—where I started to get the hang of catching waves, riding on my belly and then finally on my knees. But the breakthrough happened about a week later. I was all alone at the beach. The fog was back, thick as pea soup. It was seven o’clock in the morning and I had skipped breakfast. I rode my bi...ke to the beach, wearing my wet suit and towing my board behind me on a handmade one-wheeled trailer I’d built. I heard the waves before I saw them. It was like cannons going off. I knew I shouldn’t be out there alone but I had a fire in me. Today was it. As I paddled out to the place we called the Reef (because of a rocky reef a hundred yards from shore), I felt both scared and thrilled. It was so foggy I couldn’t even see the waves until they were on top of me. I had to paddle straight through five head-high walls of glass until I was beyond the break line.
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