Where China Meets India: Burma And the New Crossroads of Asia

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A ‘Protected Areas Permit’, not easy to get, is required for any foreigner to visit, and few bother because of the area’s history of violence and instability. ‘When I went I had to have a company of Indian soldiers protecting me,’ a Western diplomat had remarked by way of warning. I would have liked to have travelled by road from Gauhati. It would have meant a day by bus going over the Khasi and Jaintia Hills, past the old British hill station at Shillong, and then through Cachar, once a small i...ndependent kingdom. These names will mean nothing to most foreigners and little even to people in India, but they are names of places deeply associated with Burmese history. But I learned that foreigners were not allowed anywhere in Manipur other than Imphal itself. And so I flew, again on Jet Airways.
The outskirts of Imphal looked pleasant, with tall trees and well-maintained asphalt roads, the forested mountains visible in the distance. From the airport, I passed a sign advertising an ‘International Tent Pegging Championship’ that had just taken place, with a picture of men on horseback galloping across a green field.


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